Hiroshima okonomiyaki, all the layers in one bite

Cabbage, noodles, egg, and the thin crepe underneath. That’s a lot to hold together with chopsticks. On a griddle, cut off a piece about the width of the little spatula (ヘラ) and slide the spatula underneath. The whole stack comes up in one bite, and the rest stays hot on the iron. Thin yakisoba noodles in 肉玉そば can crisp at the edges and hold together when you cut through them. The thicker udon in 肉玉うどん is chewy and takes up some of the juices from the pork and cabbage. A strand can slip out as you lift the piece. At one Hiroshima shop a family tried both versions at the same table. The crisp soba got one vote. The chewy udon got two. A plate gives the stray noodles somewhere to land. A Hiroshima regular who uses a spatula at the counter gets out the chopsticks for takeout at home.